I heart Vietnam

Vietnam was the icing on the cake of our incredible journey. Though I LOVED Cambodia and probably consider it my favorite country yet, there was something truly unique, lovely and special about Vietnam. As we arrived by bus, I immediately noticed how surprisingly modern Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) was- everything looked thriving, clean and high-tech. But the biggest shock of all were the motos! Literally hundreds of motos crammed onto every block of every busy street, but as one friend put it, they seem to flow like a river through the city. They're small, fast and efficient, so traffic isn't really a big problem.

This is nothing compared to the big rotaries in Ho Chi Minh...

After getting over the craziness of the city, we found our way to the backpacker area and checked into a quaint, family-run guesthouse tucked in a quiet alleyway off of the main strip. Our first goal- eat some pho noodles! We went straight to the most well-known Pho restaurant, where Bill Clinton famously ate during his visit. With pictures of Billy hung all around, we felt right at home. And the vegetarian pho (beef is standard, but I don't eat it) was really amazing.


Then we saw a traditional water puppet show in which these puppeteers were submersed in water behind the back drop for a whole hour! It was quite fun and entertaining.


More Vietnam traffic...throughout the trip I'd been trying to get a photo of a "baby on bike." This is the best I could get!


After three days in Ho Chi Minh City, it was time for Alexis to head home, but I had one more week to explore on my own. I decided to join a 3-day group tour of the Mekong Delta so that I could meet some people, and sure enough the moment I got on the bus I made some friends! Daniel and Pete became my comrades for the week- we went on the tour, did a homestay, went to a water park, ate delicious seafood and more. That's what I love most about backpacking- how you just pick up momentary travel buddies until its time to go your separate ways.



As usually, I couldn't resist a little flirting with danger. But really, he was a very nice boa constrictor.


The first night of the Mekong Delta tour, a group of us had opted to do a homestay with a family who lives on the Mekong. We arrived, with all of our luggage on this tiny, rickety little river boat in pitch black of the night, but were welcomed with this amazing Vietnamese feast.


Elephant ear fish, fresh spring rolls, fried spring rolls, veggies and beer. One of the best meals of my trip!

The homestay family baby. Adorable!

The next morning we went to one of the famous floating markets, where farmers come to trade and sell their goods on the river. We got in on the fun buying lots of fruits and delicious Vietnamese coffee.



Back in Ho Chi Minh, I hung out with the boys for a few more days. We went to a water park, and had fun with the locals and considered careers as rickshaw drivers. I decided it wasn't for me!


On my last night, we enjoyed an amazing seafood feast on the street. We picked our seafood and it was cooked right there in front of us. I had never had razor clams before, but they are definitely one of the most delicious seafoods. Finally, it was time to say goodbye to my new friends and to lovely Vietnam. It's hard to describe my feelings at leaving. My incredible journey was over, and it had exceeded all expectations I ever had. I met so many incredible people, had seen places most people don't get to see, and had had adventures, mishaps, and overall a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. I'll always look back on it as a time I was completely free to see the world and be exactly who I want to be.

Incredible Cambodia

Wow, I cannot believe I've neglected wrapping up my blog for this long! My sincere apologies, the only excuse I can give is that I'm very focused on getting on to the next chapter in my life! It's been nice to be home in the states (and I'll write a little about that later), but I'm very anxious to get a job and an apartment of my own, so all of my energy has been going towards that. Anyway, more on the later, here is a quick recap of the rest of Cambodia.


After spending five days in lovely but rainy Siem Reap, we caught a bus to the capitol city of Phnom Penh. Though the city didn't stand out as one of the best we'd been, there were some very impressive landmarks such as the ornate Royal Palace.


It also had the best market to explore. Covering at least a square mile of land, the market was full of every kind of souvenir, household item and asian food you could imagine. I especially LOVED trying all of the different types of fruit. Although the dragonfruit pictured above was by far the most impressive looking, it actually tasted similar to a very bland kiwi. My favorite based on taste was surprisingly a familiar fruit with a twist: grilled mini bananas! I can't even begin to describe how wonderful these little things are when grilled on a stick or wrapped in rice and grilled in a banana leaf. My favorite snack of the trip!





Since our brief stop at a shelter in India, we had been wanting to spend more time at an orphanage on our travels. So, when we heard about the Lighthouse Orphanage just outside of Phnom Penh we knew we had to take the time to volunteer.


I was so pleasantly surprised to see how incredibly loved and cared for the children at Lighthouse were. Though they didn't have much- each a bunk bed in a small cottage with a few classrooms and a great big dirt terrace outside- they seemed very happy and easy going. Plus, they all had wonderful english thanks to other volunteers and their school. Even the three year olds!


We had such a good time playing with these little guys and I really hope to go back some day to give even more.



His name, so he tells me, is Bit. So I nicknamed him "Lil Bit." He is a future rap star of Cambodia, look out world. Check the video below!

Angkor What?

After four days of chilling out on Koh Chang Island, we made our greatly anticipated journey to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Getting across the border was easier than we thought, but it certainly cost us; we ended up paying about $30 more than we should have due to tourist scams, but in the end we were happy that the added money did make our trip more speedy and hassle free. We finally arrived in Siem Reap in the late afternoon in a massive down pour (which we later found out was due to the typhoon). The streets, which looked more like a river, were filled with water and we watched as the motorbikes and bicycles waded through it up to their knees. We didn’t think much of it though, and enjoyed the rest of the day hanging out at our wonderful hostel, Prince Mekong Villa. We needed to rest up for the next adventure: 3 days of exploring the ancient city of Angkor.



We were up at 5 a.m. to ride our bikes to Angkor Wat for sunrise. Unfortunately, it was looking very cloudy and grey, but we decided to go for it anyway. Mistake? Yea, maybe. About 5 kilometers into our 9 kilometer ride to Angkor Wat, we hit the floods. Once again, cars and motos riding through massive amounts of water. It looked like we could make it without getting too wet, so we said what the hell. We weren’t turning back now! But sure enough as soon as we went for it, we found ourselves knee deep in water, our sneakers completely soaked. There was nothing we could do though, and we carried on soaking wet, with sponges for shoes.









We purchased our pricey 3-day entrance ticket and made our way closer to Angkor. Just then, it started to rain! We’re here, we’re going to enjoy it, we decided. And we did. We spent the day biking around the massive ancient city. First, we went around exterior of the city, along an old stone wall gate to see some beautiful views and what would have been an awesome sunrise. After, we headed to the center of Angkor to see Bayon, the temple of faces. This incredible stone structure has massive faces carved at the top of the temple. In the rain, walking through dark, cold passages, I truly felt like I was in my own version of Indiana Jones.






Next, we explored another temple off the beaten path, recommended by our hostel owner. A tiny little temple called Ta Nai, located 4 kilometers down a dirt road. That didn’t seem like a long way, but since it was raining, the dirt had turned to mud creating somewhat of a sticky situation. We made it, and after being woo’d into buying some postcards by the most adorable and well-spoken 5-year old salesman I’ve ever met, we headed into the tiny, deserted temple. Once again, I felt like I had traveled back in time. Just an amazing feeling to be at a place that old and that incredibly beautiful.




The next three days, we continued exploring the massive city of Angkor. We went to the temple where Tomb Raider was filmed (which was by far the most crowded), road a tuk-tuk 40 km through villages and country-side to a famous temple devoted to the goddesses, and discovered tons of little gems, such as Ta Prom, which has an ancient tree growing entangled with the temple gate. On the last morning, the sun was finally making an appearance, so we woke up at 5 am to see the most famous of the temples, Angkor Wat, at sunrise. We never would’ve expected that over a thousand people would planned to do the same! There were probably at least 2,000 tourists, all snapping photos and watching as the temple changed colors with the morning sky. Despite the crowds, it was a beautiful way to end our 3-day adventure in Angkor. It was truly one of the most stunning places I’ve ever been.









Next, off to Phnom Penh to enjoy more of beautiful Cambodia…

Escape to Thailand...

Last Sunday, we made our escape from the hospital in Varanassi. It was a little alarming when I woke up that morning, only to see that the small rash on my back and arms had become much more red and bumpy, and had spread all over my body. I called the doctor right away to have him check it (hoping that somehow we would still be able to leave) and sure enough, he said it wasn’t contagious and it should be fine in a day. So we left!

Although I felt incredibly weak, I managed to carry my own 10 kg bag and walking slowly, we exited the building and entered back onto the chaotic streets of India. I was immediately struck by the harsh brightness, the intense heat, and the horrifying street smells that I’d become so accustomed to in my three weeks in India. Having spent 3 days in quarantine, my nose had completely lost it’s desensitization. And although there were several moments when I was on the verge of fainting, vomiting or crapping myself, we made it from Varanasi to Delhi and then, finally, Delhi to Bangkok. India was amazing, and it sure gave me a lot to remember it by, but when we got to Bangkok it was pure relief.

We headed to the backpacker epicenter of the world, Khao San Road (featured in The Beach) and settled into a sketchy little guesthouse. I had to go back to the doctor because the rash was still really bad, but they were incredible kind and helpful. The doctor diagnosed my illness (finally!) as Dengue Fever, said I would be fine in a few days and gave me some antihistamines for the rash. We spent a few days in Bangkok, enjoying the shopping, nightlife and other modern amenities that reminded us of home. And we ate LOTS of delicious Thai street food. Pad thai, vegetable curry, tom yum soup, mangos, dragon fruits, papayas, and more. It was refreshing to have so many fruit and vegetables, which we couldn’t really eat in India.





After a few days, we were ready to get out of the city so we headed 2 hours north to Ayuttaya, which was once the capital city of Thailand. The city is speckled with beautiful and well-preserved ruins from the Buddhist society that thrived in the 1300’s. We stayed at a quant bungalow where the owner bent over backwards to help us, and we rode our bikes all over town. Unfortunately, I was still suffering from my tropical disease, often nicknamed “break bone fever” because you get such bad arthritis that it feels like your bones are breaking. So riding bikes turned out to not be such a good idea. Still, it was better than walking. I sucked it up and tried to make the most of it, and I was very happy I did.





Finally, on Saturday we made the journey to the island of Koh Chang. After an 8 hour bus and boat ride, we headed once again to the backpacker area, called Lonely Beach. This place is a seriously chilled out, hippy heaven. The dirt road that leads to the beach is strewn with hemp shops, tattoo and massage parlors, reggae bars, and lots of cheap bungalows. We went straight to the beach and got a bungalow on the water for a whopping 250 baht ($8) a night. We thoroughly enjoyed chilling out on Koh Chang. We did a lot of laying on the beach, but also met some cool people and ate some great Thai food. On our second day, we decided to venture out of Lonely Beach, so for $3 we rented a scooter (and helmets, of course) and explored a bit of the island. We hiked to a waterfall, did some shopping in another beach town, and rode to a peak to check out the awesome view. It was so fun and really liberating.




Finally, our last day in Thailand arrived. We woke up to the sunniest, hottest day yet and headed out to the beach. In the afternoon, we had oil massages in a little wooden hut right on the beach. It may have been the most relaxing experience I‘ve ever had. Listening to the ocean waves, while being rubbed down with oil and relieved of all the soreness and fatigue of travel; what could be better? It was pure bliss, and after a long day of nothing but chilling, we enjoyed a last Thai meal of sweet green curry stew along with pad see-ew noodles with squid. Simply delicious.






Next, it’s off to Siem Reap to see the ancient Angkor Wat. As usual, I can’t wait.

Hospitalized...in InDiA!!

It was our last day of the tour; we were in Varanassi and would be taking an overnight train that night back to Delhi to say goodbye to the group and go our separate ways. We planned to have a leisurely day stopping at a few temples and finishing up the last of our purchases at the local market.

But when I woke up, something was wrong. When I got out of bed, my hands and my feet were so soar at the joints that I could barely walk. It felt like I had arthritis. “The weirdest thing happened to me this morning,” I explained when Lex woke up after I limped out of the shower. I told her what happened and she suggested maybe going to a doctor. “Yea, maybe,” I responded. I walked back into the bathroom in my towel to brush my hair and gasped. All over my back were blotchy red and purple spots.

We immediately told our tour guide and he took us right to a hospital, without even telling the rest of the group that the plans for the day were cancelled. Although the symptoms were bizarre, I wasn’t really nervous. I just figured I get some meds and be on my way in a few hours.

When we arrived, I was rushed through the emergency and waiting rooms, and shown to a doctor eons before any Indian person, I’m sure. Looking back, it’s probably because they were afraid I had swine flu.

Anyway, the doctor told me it was potentially serious, and that I would have to be hospitalized for two or three days. TWO OR THREE DAYS?!! I burst into tears. I’d never in my life been hospitalized before, and now I’d be hospitalized in India, in the hands of strangers, and would have to leave behind almost everyone trustworthy person (except for Lex who was staying with me, thank goodness).



After being tested and given lots of mysterious meds, I started to get comfortable in my private room with a satellite TV, couch, extra guest bed, and room service. Plus, the travel insurance company was so helpful and had already picked up the bill! I really didn’t feel too bad, except for the fever, joints and rash, so once all of the paper work and travel plans were settled, I was able to relax.

But three days of relaxing became very, very long and tedious. We ate luke warm hospital food and strange fruit. Lex made trips out to the real world to use the internet. We watched terrible movies like Conan and The Lizzie McGuire Movie. We watched and laughed as about 100 random staff members came in and out of my room, cleaning, tending, asking if I needed anything. In this case, it was a little too much.

strange fruit!

Finally, on Day 3 it looked like I was healing enough to leave, and the doctor gave me the OK to go the next day. “By the way,’ I asked, “Do you know what’s wrong with me?” “Not really. Possibly some mutation of Dengue Fever, but there’s really no way to know,” he answered. “Fantastic!” I replied. At least I was off to Thailand in one more day…

once in thailand...covered in calomine lotion for the rash

Last Stop: Varanassi

Varanasi is much like other cities in India: noisy, energetic, colorful, and at times, smelly. Yet, there is also something very special about it. As it is ridiculously ancient, it has a beautiful old charm and it is sacred to the millions of pilgrims who visit every year.

This bull has been chilling in this garment store for 8 years!


Poppy seed shake...weird!!!

Our first activity in Varanasi was a sunset boat ride up the Ganges River. We boarded into an old wooden boat and putted up the river towards the burning yards. This is where Hindus are cremated when they come to holy Varanasi to die. Three fires were set a blaze when we road up and many people were surrounding them, watching. Our guide kindly told us not to take a picture out of respect, so we put away our cameras. As we got closer, young boys dressed only in their underwear, began jumping off the ledges of buildings into the river, right next to the burning yards. They were having a great time. Someone pointed out, that that seemed pretty disrespectful, right? Actually, Hindus look at death more as a part of life and so for the boys who live their, it is a part of their lives. Though it was weird, I could understand how this could be the case in a country like India. Anyhow, after making our way back down the river, woman in saris handed us beautiful floating candles with pink and orange flowers placed on them. We were told to light the candle, make a wish and float the candles off into the river. They were so lovely that I wanted to keep mine… but, I wanted my wish to come true more!






After our boat ride, we followed Shakti through the hectic market and suddenly, we were at a wide open area in front of the river, only it was packed with thousands of people. There was a stage set up next to the river, and people sat surrounding it on all sides; they were even sitting packed into boats, waiting for something special, I was sure. We walked down and found seats on the boats, just in time. Soon enough, beautiful Indian music and drums started playing, and 6 Hindu monks took their place on the stage. For the next hour, they put on a incredible ceremony, which they apparently do every day of the year. They chanted, sang, danced, and banged drums all the way through. It was amazing! By the end of the ceremony, all of the people were clapping and chanting a long. For us outsiders, it was both exhilarating and eerie to see this mass of people all smiling and singing so passionately about something that we could not understand.







The next morning was yet another early, early morning. At 5 a.m. we headed back to the river boats, but this time we would be seeing a completely different side to river life. The morning was filled with much more life on the river. Priests set up shop on the many stone steps for people to come pray with them. Men, women and children formed groups and got into the Ganges river to bath. As we road up the river, I found it hard not to feel intrusive, but Shakti assured us that they don’t mind or they wouldn’t do it in the open. Still, I was still too shy to take any photos.




We went back to sleep after the boat ride and then took an excursion outside of the city to Saranath, where Buddha gave his first sermon. It was a little disappointing that it turned out to be nothing but a pile of rocks, but it was still really cool to be there. We still had one more day in Varanasi, before heading back to Delhi for the end of the trip, so my plan was to take it easy and do the last of my shopping (I had a lot more on my list of things to buy!). But little did I know, that there would be a big wrench thrown into my plans. Stay tuned…