After haggling down the price of an auto-rickshaw from 100 rupees to 50 (about $2 to $1), we were driven to the pinnacle of the city, the stunning Maherang Fort, a centuries old fort palace where the actress Liz Hurley was recently married. The fort was stunningly beautiful and we wandered around it, taking pictures and getting a lot of attention from the Indian tourists who apparently hadn’t seen any foreigners in this less touristy city. When we were finished, we wandered down hundreds (maybe thousands) of steps into the city neighborhoods, with their blue façades, dyed with indigo to keep the buildings cool. We just wandered the neighborhoods observing the ordinary, yet fascinating daily lives of the Jodphur people. Everyone was friendly and we had so many kids chasing after us, screaming “hello!!” and it took me back to Korea for a moment. After a few hours of exploring the neighborhoods and markets, we headed back, and tried our first Indian talhi dinner, a sort of buffet in which you’re served an assortment of small dishes. It was, of course, delicious.
The next morning, we were up early to take an excursion out of the city to see the Bishnou villages of India. Bishnou means “29” and the people in these villages commit to 29 rules to living an eco-friendly life. They are subsistent farmers who don’t kill animals; they farm and make handicrafts for a living. The 11 of us were driven by safari jeeps an hour outside of Jodphur, and our first stop was with a farm family, where we would participate in an opium ceremony. Opium is illegal in India, but the Bishnou people have been using it forever in ceremonies and to welcome guests, and no one stops them because they don’t abuse it or try to sell it. Anyway, the elderly man of the family welcomed us and had us sit in a circle with him, around a wooden contraption used in the ceremony for making opium tea. After preparing the tea, he did a ritual chant and then offered us each a taste. There were no tea cups at this ceremony though- in the Bishnou culture, each person drinks the tea from the hand of the eldest man. So yes, I sipped opium tea out of an Indian man’s hand, and it was an experience I‘ll never forget. It was just a small sip, not enough to have any effect on us, except the equivalent of a caffeine buzz, but it was just amazing to be a part of the ceremony.
After exploring their house and meeting the family, we headed to the next village where we were taken to the house of a weaver. When we arrived, he was seated at a huge, wooden weaving machine, making a massive blue “Duhri” and Indian rug made of cotton. He let us all have a try and showed us some of his best pieces. After leaving the weavers, we visited a potter and a clothe maker, who made gorgeous handmade prints for bedspreads, saris and pillows. It was very tempting to buy, but once again I resisted. Finally, we were taken to a farm families house where we were served a simple, yet delicious lunch of millet bread, curry lentils and masala potatoes. As we drove back to the city, we spotted wild antelope and water buffalo, and we all basked in the delight of such an exhilarating morning. It was such a beautiful and unique experience to be welcomed into the homes of the Bishnou people, yet another that I surely won’t forget.
That afternoon, we enjoyed our oasis, before taking our group orientation walk with our Tour Leader, Shakti, that evening. First, we walked through the Jodphur market sampling street food and checking out the local goods. Next we went to a Lassi Shop (famous Indian drink, like a yogurt shake), which Shakti had been talking for days, saying it is known to serve the best lassi’s in India. My expectations were very high, and luckily they were met. The lassi’s were thick, creamy and cold, and were the perfect combination of sweet and tangy, and had an added surprise of spices like saffron. Absolutely delicious and so filling, but the boys couldn’t resist and had to get another. For only 17 rupees each (40 cents), they could afford it. After, we went to an amazing textile shop, were we were showed beautiful fabrics and some people did a bit of shopping. Finally, we capped the night off with another talhi dinner, this time all you can eat for 125 rupees (less than $3!). Yet another delicious meal.
This morning we had a 8-hour bus ride to Udaipur, through stunning mountains and farmland. We’re here for two days, in the “most romantic city in India” and will be going to the city palace, Lake Pichola, as well as taking a cooking class. Hopefully, I’ll learn how to replicate some of the amazing cuisine I’ve been experiencing!
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